Followup on Muhly Grass, aka Mark Grass

This is a followup on the Muhly Grass, aka Mark Grass post of 01-11-11.

Even with the heat and drought of the 2011 growing season, this plant has done superbly.

It is a happy-go-lucky plant that requires no care once it's establish in a sunny, well-drained area.

When it shows new growth in the spring, a dose of balanced fertilizer is ALL that's required from you. Mother nature does the rest.

No pests or diseases infiltrate this plant and wildlife doesn't like it at all! It's growth habit is clumpy.

New plants form around the perimeter of the clump and when folks want some, I just dig them one of the new plants; however, it's time to seriously divide mine, and I plan on planting them en masse throughout my gardens next spring. It's fabulous planted en masse on a hillside or knoll - but unfortunately, I have neither! It's hardy from zones 7 through 10. It makes a great xeriscape plant.

It will bloom like this from early October until frost - then all the fronds and blooms will turn brown. Even in this stage, it's gorgeous - it looks 'stately'. But before spring growth starts it should be cut back to about three inches. I use my hedge trimmers for this task and usually get it down with a couple of swipes. One year I failed to do this and found it impossible to get the dead fronds out of the new growth! So I just had to look at an ugly mess for one season. I try not to make the same mistake twice . . .so about February I get out there and get it done!

Three people have stopped this season to ask about my muhly grass. Now I know that three inquiries doesn't sound like a lot, but considering that we see only the postman and paper delivery person during a normal day, three is significant! (smiley face)

If you want to see some truly superb muhly grass follow this link: http://fairegarden.wordpress.com/2009/01/03/muhly-grass-see-you-in-september/

I almost didn't share this link with you simply because I'm jealous and intimidated - I'd sure like to where this person got their photography skills and what camera they use!!! Just kidding - but I am envious of their gardening and photography skills!

Overwintering Potted Annuals and Tender Perennials

As promised in my last post, I'm gonna show you how I overwinter my potted annuals and tender perennials. Initially, this method took a lot of work, but has paid off handsomely over the years.

Anyone that's done any gardening at all knows how difficult it is to keep potted annuals and tender perennials through the winter. In the past, I've brought them inside and placed them in the corner of an infrequently used bedroom. If you've ever tried this, you know what a horrendous mess they make and by the time you can put them back outside, they're almost leafless and they're leggy - and just look sick. It's well into spring before they begin looking good again and you wonder why in the world you bothered.

Greenhouses are really nice for those gardeners who don't mind investing the time and work involved to keep it working optimally; but, I'm not one of those. Admittedly, in the spring sometimes I wish I had one to get new annuals started and to have a place to store tender perennials. But not enough to take the leap!

Then hubby inadvertently helped me develop an alternative for keeping the plants healthy as well as nice and warm over winter.

One fall day in 2006, we were sitting in our 'outside livingroom' sipping tea and enjoying the nice, crisp air. I was pondering how I could possibly keep these all these beautiful potted plants surrounding us looking good over winter. I verbalized this thought to hubby and he said, "Why don't you do what the old folks did?"

Of course I had no idea what he was talking about so he explained that when he was growing up, every woman had a 4-foot deep 'flower pit' where they'd store the plants overwinter - then they'd take them out in the spring. He said they didn't have the money to replace them every year and since it was as cold in the house as it was outside, this was the only option available.

The theory (it's not a theory - it's a fact) behind this is that a certain distance underground, the soil never gets below 55 degrees; therefore you don't have to worry about freezes and frosts. The top of the pit is covered with two doors - which protects the plants on freezing days/nights. On nice, sunny days, of which the south has plenty, the doors are opened to allow light in and also to allow an exchange of air. They're also opened during rains - providing it isn't a freezing rain.

This sounded fantastic to me and since he was so familiar with this pit, I thought it would be a good idea if he built me one ..hehe. . .he didn't think it was such a good idea if he built one, but he did go talk to a man who owns a backhoe and the man promised to come out the next day and dig the hole. Of course, he didn't show up, nor did he call, and I was getting antsy.

The following morning hubby got out with his shovel, rake and mattock along with a few measuring tools, stakes and boards  - asked me where I wanted the pit, then he got started.

He piled the dirt from the hole around the edges of the pit. This allows a little more height for the pit, plus gives a nice landscape effect.


When he got the pit dug and the dirt piled around it like he wanted it  (he's a perfectionist), he framed the top of it with treated lumber. This was to stabilize the dirt and keep it from falling back into the pit, plus provide a frame to support the doors.


I only put a few plants in the pit the first year. I'll be quite honest with you and tell you I didn't really believe it would work .. .but also couldn't believe he'd go to this much effort without the confidence it would!

Well, this is how my annuals looked in November of 2006.
And this is how they looked in December.


and then February


In March, I took the plants out and put them where I wanted them! They took off growing immediately and were bloomng much sooner than new plants would have. Of course, by this time "I'm a Believer." . . .Now if you recognize this song title and can sing the rest of it, I can just about guess your age!!!

So now I fill the pit with whatever I can find - and have even asked for another pit - but I don't think that's gonna happen! I even dig my Mandevilla, Bouganvillia, and Gerbers and put them in the pit for overwintering. These three particular plants are some of my favorites but because of their price, I hated buying them every year. Now I just dig them - place them in 5-gallon buckets, fill with potting soil (hubby drilled some drainage holes), then place them in the pit. Then spring, as soon as the soil is warm enough to plant them, they're ready to continue growing.

I know this method won't work for everyone . .restricted space. . uncooperative hubbies . .or various other reasons make it prohibitive, but it works SUPERBLY for me!

Cleome

One of my favorite sisters, Helen, got me hooked on the Cleome, sometimes called 'spider' flower. It is another annual that I use as a filler.

The yellow flowers in bloom here are lilies. Ignore them for now and we'll talk more about them in the spring.

Cleome bloom on the top of tall spikes from the bottom upwards. The bottoms begin to set seed prior to the top of the stem blooming. Between this and the fact that the stamens are long and wiry, it gets the name "spider flower'.

It's a good plant that loves full sun. It is somewhat drought tolerant, but will do much, much better if it's watered during dry spells. The entire bloom is ball-shaped with individual small blooms forming the ball. Technically, this characteristic is called 'racemes'. These balls, or racemes, are sometimes six inches in diameter and you'll have many on one plant.

Because of their height, they make a fantastic back of the border plant. I like to plant them in front of the sunflowers . . .the two together makes a beautiful sight! The leaves will begin to turn brown and the stems will get leggy toward the end of summer, but since they're used at the back of the border, these drawbacks are barely noticeable. Some gardeners say they grow these plants up to six feet tall; however, about four feet is as high as I've ever gotten them.

I find the leaf of the cleome almost as interesting as the flower. Atop a long, spiky petiole the six-petaled bracts fill in the plants. The inside bracts are very small with each succeeding bract getting larger. Of course the top bract is the largest. This arrangement of leaves plus the quantity of bracts keep the cleome looking full until mid-fall.

Because of their musky odor, Cleome is not recommended for cut flowers in closed areas . But they work great on a porch or patio. Soak the stems in warm water to condition them prior to making your arrangement - and enjoy!

Insects and disease are not a problem with this plant.



Cleome Seed Pods



Even though they reseed prolifically, it's advisable to start with new plants each year. Most of the cleomes today are hybrids and the new plants won't be true to the parent plant. I've never tried to root these stems . . .but I don't see any reason why you couldn't. And since they are pricey (considering they're annuals), you might want to give stem rooting a try. They cost from $5 to $8 a PLANT, depending on whether you buy them from the big box stores or an independent nursery.

In my next post, I'll show you how I keep tender annuals and perennials over winter. My method is not one that everyone can use, but it works great for me!

Penstemon

The Penstemon (pen-STAY-mon) is a herbaceous, evergreen plant. It blooms in early summer and when it's in bloom, you really don't notice anything else in your garden. It's stately stems rise from three to four feet tall and produces long, tubular-shaped, five-petaled flowers. It starts blooming from the bottom of the stem upward. The blooms on the bottom of the stem maintains it's color until blooming is complete. It's in full bloom for six to eight weeks. Deadheading will increase the bloom period a while longer.

The Penstemon is a fantastic xeriscaping plant and is grown throughout North America. It's grown profusely in Arizona where you know they don't even know what rain is . ..as you've probably figured, they don't like soggy soils.

Native Americans chewed on the roots of this plant to relieve toothache.

Penstemon is available in red, pink, lavender or white. In 1999, the variety Husker Red, which is what I have,  was named the Perennial Plant of the Year by the Perennial Plant Association.

The foliage of this plant hugs the ground. Never getting more than two to three inches tall. This makes it a fantastic ground cover during the winter.

It multiplies rapidly with pups originating from the mother plant. I started with three plants. After about two years I began giving them to friends and relatives. Now they are tossed into the woods if I can't find good home for them.

Rabbits deplore this plant but hummers and bees LOVE it.

Bananas, Coffee Grounds, and Epsom Salts

Most of you know that chemicals are kept to a minimum in my yard .. simply because I feel mother nature is a much more effective nurturer than I! Not to mention that unnecessary chemicals leaching into the soil then ultimately, the ground water, is a negative as far as I'm concerned. If you're interested in organic gardening, here are some tips you might appreciate.

Do you have some overripe bananas and don't have time to make banana bread? Here's your solution. Rather than toss them in the trash or on the compost pile, mash them up and 'plant' them around your roses! There have been times when I'd even buy overripe bananas that have been marked down just to feed my roses.

And since hubby no longer can have potassium nor carbs; no longer can I make banana bread. waaawaaa!!!! My self-control is not all that great when it comes to good food; therefore, should I break down and make the bread, I KNOW who'd eat it . .then we'd have to install double doors all over the house - and since I'd rather spend those $$$$ on plants and shrubs, I just let the roses have the overripe bananas instead!

Roses LOVE the potassium that the bananas and their peels provide! And if you want to provide a really good meal for the roses, mix some used coffee grounds into the bananas. . .you'll make your roses very, very happy. And if you really want to pamper those roses, add about two teaspoons of Epsom Salts into the mixture. ALL flowers and blooming shrubs love the magnesium that the salts provide.

Used, dried coffee grounds are great for many of your plants and shrubs. I use mine mostly on the hydrangeas that flank my back door steps. The coffee grounds supply a constant source of much needed nutrients. Simply let the grounds dry (sometimes I use the microwave for this) and sprinkle them around your shrubs . .mother nature will take them down into the soil. While the grounds are providing nutrients for you prized hydrangea, the grounds will keep the soil soft and pliable which allows for nutrients and moisture to be absorbed more readily.

Nikki Hydrangea (Margo)

Oak Leaf Hydrangea

Many experts advise against this practice, but many more approve of as well as recommend it. As long I have have hydrangeas like this, I'll continue the practice!

One more thing - If you drink your coffee black, dump your cold coffee into your African violets rather than the sink. They'll LOVE you!

Hellebore





The Hellebore is better known as the Christmas Rose and the Lenten Rose. This is because some varieties bloom during Christmas time and others begin around Lenten season (40 days prior to Easter).

This is a very low growing evergreen perennial that's gorgeous the entire year. It's low maintenance and very easy to take care for. Just put her in the shade, be sure she gets plenty of water (not soggy - just moist) and fertilizer. Sometime in September I give them about a cup of bone meal sprinkled around the plants an worked into the soil. Then just wait for her gorgeous bloom.

The most unique thing I love about this plant is its individuality. I have many varieties; therefore I have blooms from Christmas to late spring; when most other plants are dormant. I haven't tried any for arrangements- but I think I might this upcoming season.

The colors range from pure white to almost black. The only color I don't have is the true red. Needless to say, the red is on my wish list! Its leaves are atop an 18" stem that originates from the soil rather than on the plant.  It's a five-section, serrated, leathery leaf.

The only drawback I've seen is the head of the bloom droops (another thing most retailers won't tell you). Some botanist say this is because if water get down into the bloom and freezes, and creates an ugly mess.You literally have to lift the head of the flower up to view it. But, hybridizers who recognize the value and joy of this plant are working judiciously to develop a Hellebore whose flowers will bloom upright.

Propagation is accomplished by either division or seed. But remember that, because it's hybridized, seed won't necessarily be true to the parent plant.

Mine are planted in my 'fern' bed along with Heucheru and other shade plants that love moisture.

One of my favorite nieces that accompanied The Sisters on a recent trip to Callaway Gardens saw and fell in love with this plant. Callaway had it naturalized throughout the woods and that was a gorgeous effect as well.

A Question for You!

This white jewel was found growing amongst my cannas this past summer. I have no idea what it is nor how it got there (but I sure hope it multiplies). It bloomed around late June.

The fronds were sorta like the amaryllis plant - the petals had about five 'spoke' looking thingies extending from the petals - The fronds were about two feet high and the bloom stood about three feet - the round part of the bloom was about three inches in diameter and the 'spokes' were at six to eight inches long. Other than this oral description and the photo I can't tell you anything else about it!

Any help would be appreciated - as I'd like to have more of these babies.

I'm definitely gonna watch it closer in 2012 and mark its location!