Train Up a Shrub the Way it Should Grow

Since this is a pretty long and detailed post I'll warn you that If you're not interested in planting or transplanting shrubs, you may get bored.  So read no further. If you are interested, read on.

Ahhhhhhhhhhh . .. fall is here!!! And fall is the best time to plant or transplant shrubs. Fall planting and transplanting is preferable for a couple of reasons.  The days are short and cool and the plants won't have to struggle to survive. Also, fall planting gives the shrubs a few weeks to get their roots established in their new home before they go dormant. Then they get blessed with all those fantastic spring rains. All this plus good planting practices almost guarantees success.

The first step in ensuring success is to select a healthy shrub. The top (green part) of the shrub denotes pretty much what kind of root system it has. If the shrub is bushy, thick, and green, most likely the roots are healthy as well. You can always double check by tapping the shrub from its container and inspecting the roots. If they are plentiful and white, chances are you have a good shrub. (If I see a plant with an unusual amount of roots growing out of the bottom of the container, I'll pass it by.)

When you get the plant home, submerge it (container and all) into a bucket of water for a couple hours. This ensures that the roots and stems are well hydrated before planting. Then take the plant (in the container) and set it in the area where you intend to plant. Let it remain there undisturbed for 2 or 3 days. This is to ensure that the shrub begins to get acclimated to its new home.

Last Wednesday I bought two Yule Tide Sasanqua. (After I describe the plant, and I'm gonna walk you through how to plant.) The sasanqua is a cousin to the camellia but there are differences that need to be considered as to where to locate them. The sasanqua doesn't like as much shade as the camellia.. .they like their home where they can get early morning sun and dappled shade during the day. They do not get as big; therefore do not require as much space as the camellia. The Yule Tide is a gorgeous bright red color and sometimes they'll bloom early enough to use in your Christmas decorations.

The sasanqua starts blooming in late December and blooms sometimes through April . .depending on soil, age of shrub, and weather conditions. The blooms are about 3" in diameter with bright yellow stamens. Bloom colors range from pure white, pinks, through bright reds. It is an evergreen shrub so you're never without some kind of color in the garden. Also, they make a better cut flower than the camellia. You know how easily the flower drops from the camellia stem? This doesn't happen with the sasanqua.  The leaves look much like the camellia.

Staging the planting area with the required materials and tools is important, as you don't want to get started then have to look for items you'll need. I normally get the wheelbarrow, shovel,  pruners, hose, mattock, (in case I hit some stubborn roots), fertilizer, compost, and a large piece plastic on which to place the soil you dig out.

After you've done all the soaking, acclimating, and staging it's time to dig the hole. It's best to dig the hole at least two times wider and deeper than the root ball. This is a case where bigger is better! When this hole is dug, fill it with water. . .throw in about 1/2 cup of balanced fertilizer (for the roots to 'reach' for) and let it drain (this soaks the ambient soil). Wait six months or so before giving them any more fertilizer; the nurseryman has already provided the plant with plenty of nutrients.

In equal amounts, mix compost and cow manure, with some of the soil from the hole. Build sort of a mound at the bottom of the hole. Build this mound high enough that the plant will be at the recommended planting depth.

Then taking the plant from its container, use your fingers, to remove most of the soil from the root ball. Then straighten any roots that are growing around the inside of the container. This is a critical step in that roots are like water; they'll take the path of least resistance. If they've already started growing around inside the pot, they will continue growing in that manner in the ground; i.e., never reaching out for water/nutrients and eventually the plant with either choke or starve to death. But if you'll take the time to straighten the roots and lay them straight outward on the mound you built, they start (and continue) reaching downwards and outwards as nature designed.

After you're satisfied that it is at the correct planting depth (plant transplanted shrubs at the level in their previous home), throw in some of the soil mixture then add enough water to settle the soil. This ensures that air pockets are removed . .. add more of the mixture ..water a little more (tamping a little after each addition) until you are at the top of hole. Gently walk along the perimeter of the plant to ensure the roots are in good contact with the soil. After doing this, you may have to topdress with a little more of the mixture. Check to see if you broke any limbs . .if so, cut them off as this jagged wound is an open invitation for insect/disease entry.

From this point, all you have to do is say a little prayer and get ready to clean up and mulch! Then wait to see new growth early next spring at which time you'll want to fertilize again with a good azalea fertilizer.

Patsy, you may want Ron to read this prior to new plantings at your new home . . .